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Questions and Answers
2008 |
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Question |
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HI,
I need some advice please on what to do with an old veggie patch in
my backyard. The previous owner maintained a veggie patch, taking up
about one-third of the yard. It is no longer maintained as a veggie
patch and if I could afford it I would makeover the whole backyard.
That area is now just a patch of dirt that is overgrown with weeds.
The man that mows my front lawn previously cleared it, but then I
found that the loose soil was unsightly and would blow onto the
paved area on windy days. It also had a lot of debris in it (from
old construction work on my house, bits of broken plaster) that was
unnoticeable while the weeds were growing over it. How do I keep the
patch looking neat, would it be possible to cover it over with
gravel or wood chips? I don't want to spend a lot of money by
putting a lawn over it as I intend to redo the whole area someday.
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Answer |
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It should be quite easy to deal with this area. First
of all I would ensure that all the weeds are well and truly dead by
treating the area with a good quality perennial weed killer. Leave
it for a few weeks to see if any annual weeds germinate and if they
do pull them out by hand. Then you should lay a weed suppressing
membrane ensuring that the whole area is well covered. You will be
able to buy this from your local garden centre or DIY store. Finally
lay a thick layer of your chosen mulch. You can use anything you
like as they all do the same job. The thing to remember is that weed
seeds will find there way into the mulch and germinate. However they
are usually quite weak so if you pull them up as soon as you see
them they should be quite easy to control. |
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I have just bought a lovely Cordyline australis red
star it says on the plant card its only half hardy and wont survive
hard frosts yet elsewhere I have read its fully hardy and the frost
wont damage it I have bought it in doors placed it where it can get
plenty of light and avoided putting it near radiators so should I
keep it indoors for now or plant it out it is in a large black
plastic pot at moment I have other Cordylines which have done ok
over last two winters though different from this one |
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You are correct that some Cordylines do survive the
winter but I think it best to play safe. Leave it indoors over this
winter and plant it out into a sheltered, sunny spot once the risk
of frost has passed. Next Winter cover the leaves with horticultural
fleece to protect it. Alternatively plant it into a nice pot and
bring it indoors each winter. |
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I have a very shaded area of my garden 5 6 hours max
sun on a good day in summer I was looking at a relatively
inexpensive way of planting some form of hedge that will not grow
much over 3ft but will be noticeable perhaps something that may have
flowers or berries on at some stage in the year any advice welcomed |
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Answer |
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I have done some research and found a few plants
which should make a good, low hedge with some interest. There are
not many hedging plants which like full shade so I have also
included some that like partial shade. They should still do OK
although they may bloom a little later than usual. Switch Ivy –
likes acid soil, Snowy Woodrush – I don’t know this one well but
enjoys full shade, Common Box – needs to be kept well pruned to
shape, Berberis – likes sun or shade. Lovely colour but has thorns,
Pyracantha – also like sun or shade but again
is thorny and will need pruning well each year, Red-barked Dogwood –
the red bark is even better when cut right down each year. |
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I have a Xylosteum (fly honeysuckle) growing in my
garden. Please could you tell me if the red berries growing in the
winter are poisonous. I have several young children and am concerned
for their welfare. |
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The berries on the fly honeysuckle are mildly
poisonous so I wouldn't > take a chance near small children. |
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We have recently purchased a property with a Bore,
the Bore water has a high Iron content, although my newly planted
garden isn't affected by this my neighbour has reported that he has
lost his plants due to the Iron levels in the water. So my questions
is will the Iron affect the growth of my plants? (The Iron level
isn't extreme, it is still suitable for drinking) |
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Answer |
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I have tried to do some research on this but can’t
find an awful lot on the subject. The usual problem in gardens in
lack of iron as a lot of plants are unable to absorb the iron the
soil. I would think that as long as you look after your soil and
plant good quality specimens your plants should be OK. Keep the site
well drained and add plenty of well rotted organic matter each year
to improve the structure. Sorry I couldn’t offer more help. |
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I live on a estate where when I come out of my flat I
come on to a dark outside landing that gets little natural light I
was wondering if there was any type of trees shrub I and my fellow
neighbours could put in to pots that would brighten the place up I
would like some thing that would grow to around 6ft I did thing
about conifers but I believe like a lot of trees and plants they
need a fair amount of sunshine and /or natural light if you can
think of anything I would be grateful preferably something that
would be evaluable in your average garden centres |
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Firstly you could try ferns. These come in various
sizes, not as tall as 6ft but some can reach 3ft and have a good
texture. Alternatively, why not put an obelisk into a container and
grow an ivy up it, twining it in and out as it grows to make it bush
out. There are some lovely brightly coloured ivy such as Sulphur
Heart. For a long term investment you could try a climbing
hydrangea. I have one on the back wall of my house. It faces north
and never gets any sun, it won’t grow as big as it says in the
description and you can prune it each year if needed and it still
flowers well. Here’s a link so you can see what it looks like.
http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/other-climbers/hydrangea-anomala-subsp.-petiolaris/itemno.PL00003342/.
For a short-term show you could try a few hanging baskets or
containers filled with Busy Lizzies. They won’t flower as long or as
bright as when they are in sunlight but you should get a few weeks
out of them and they will tolerate being dried out if they don’t get
watered for a while. In all cases you will need to ensure the soil
is of good quality and add some well rotted organic matter to help
retain moisture. Either re-pot or top-up the containers each year to
keep them fresh. |
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I bought a Grevillea plant today the guy at the
garden centre just said it grows to about 3 feet and flowers until
June I have since found there are many types mine has pink and black
flowers on pine like branches what is the general rule of where to
plant type of soil etc any tips welcomed thank you |
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Answer |
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It seems to be quite tender and prefers a light,
sandy soil. Plant it out in a sunny, sheltered spot and perhaps
protect it when the weather is severe. You shouldn’t need to prune
it unless you want to keep it to a certain size or shape, if you do
wish to prune it do it once flowering has finished. |
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I want to replace my Acer in the garden. Is it ok to
plant a new one in the same place as the one I am now digging out? |
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As long as the Acer you are replacing is healthy then
I can see no reason why planting another would cause problems.
Ensure you remove all the roots of the old tree and dig a hole twice
the size of the root ball of the new tree. Add lots of well rotted
compost to the soil when back-filling. Water if it doesn’t rain but
ensure it doesn’t get waterlogged. |
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I have a wisteria tree which is well established
(over 25 years), it is situated in my front garden and has been
trained to grow over an archway and along the side of my garage. We
have invested in a larger vehicle and as a result need to widen our
driveway area which impinges on where the wisteria trunk is sited.
As we will be digging up this area to lay a new driveway and paving
area, rather than lose the wisteria, we wondered whether once the
roots are exposed whether it would be possible to re-site the trunk
a few metres away and re-bed in the new paving without causing
damage to the tree? |
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Answer |
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I am not confident that you will be able to easily
re-site your wisteria. rule a tree’s roots spread the same
distance underground as their branches do above ground so I would
doubt that you would be able to remove all the roots without
damaging them and therefore risking the tree. Having said that it
sounds as if you have to remove the tree anyway so it may be worth
the risk. If you decide to go ahead you should dig a hole in the new
location before you begin removing the tree. Make sure the hole is
wide enough and deep enough to contain all the roots and add lots of
well rotted compost to give it as much help as possible. You may
need to detach some branches from the support wires prior to moving.
Once you are ready, carefully expose as much root as you can and
only cut off roots if absolutely necessary. The most important roots
are the smaller fibrous roots which take up the goodness in the
soil, the bigger roots are there to hold the tree in place and seek
out water further below the surface. Before laying the new paving
give the tree lots of water each day for as long as you can to help
it establish. If it does happen to die off you could always use it
as support for another climber such as a clematis or honeysuckle. |
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I bought a Cistus snow white yesterday and planted
it by the instructions on the plant card however when I looked on
the Internet it says not to use organic compost not to mulch and not
to feed I used multi purpose compost give it a feed with miracle
grow all of which the plant card suggested will it harm it or should
I dig it up. |
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Answer |
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Cistus plants are originally from the dry, rocky
soils of the Mediterranean, which means that they like poor, sandy
soils so do not need fertile soil or fertilisers. I must admit that
when I planted my first Cistus I also used compost and feed and it
did OK. You may find it possibly won’t do as well as had you planted
it in poor soil but as long as you don’t add any more mulch or feed
then it will be OK in future years. However, if you have only just
planted it, you should be able to dig it up quite easily if you
prefer to replant. If you do just dig a hole and pop it in! The good
news is that this plant copes with fairly extreme droughts so does
not need much watering and loves strong sunlight. Also, this is one
of the few Cistus plants that responds well to occasional pruning of
its stems. |
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I am not sure if you can help but I am looking to buy
some coprosma evening glow or/and coprosma fire burst so far I have
had little luck I have tried googling it but very poor results none
of my local garden centres stock it I bought some last year from a
local market and would like to get more I really want a fairly well
established rather than a small gutting that needs to be grown on do
you know of any online nurseries that would sell this also regards
dogwood I really like the look of this but again not been able to
find it in my garden centres does this come in the form of a shrub
or bush has its something I am not familiar with thanks for any help
you can provide |
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Answer |
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I have to admit to not knowing about Coprosma but I
have managed to find a company who sell a few varieties. Click on
the link below:
http://www.burncoose.co.uk/site/plants.cfm?pn_id=176. There are
several types of Dogwood (Cornus) so I have added a link to a few at
Crocus for you to look at
http://clkuk.tradedoubler.com/click?p(979)a(1087930)g(74608)url(http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.cornus/) |
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We have a well established pear tree in our garden.
The problem is that is has grown lopsided / horizontally right
across the garden, so much so that it is obstructing the garden
path. I would like to keep the tree but would like some advice on
how to prune it to encourage it to grow upwards rather than
outwards. |
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It is possible to do what you are asking but it will
need to be done in stages as to reduce the stress to the tree. I
think the best thing for your to do is to follow RHS advice on this
matter so I have included a link below on Apple and pear tree
renovation:http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles1101/fruit_tree.asp |
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I have what seems to be three different type of
spotted laurels one is dark green in colour the other light green
with what seems like the beginning of possibly some flowers the
other is the same colour light green the first two were planted
around a month ago and around 2 3 ft the last one was planted last
summer and has hardly grown at all I did read for these to produce
flowers you need a male and female like a holly and I thought they
were very quick growers I have seen some has high has well over
20foot round where I live they seem to get bigger every year mine
are planted in full sun in a good quality compost any information on
this plant would be welcomed thank you. I bought a shrub called a
beauty berry in October last year it had a abundance of purple
berries which have gradually dropped of I believe it is suppose to
have pink flowers in summer but at moment I have just a bare shrub
is this normal |
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Answer |
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Regarding your laurels. Do you know which variety you
have? I have detailed three of the more common ones below and as you
can see their sizes and flowering requirements do vary. If you can
find the actual varieties I can do more research for you. • Aucuba
Japonica Crotonifolia. Evergreen, bushy, dense shrub with stout,
green shoots. Large glossy, dark green leaves are heavily mottled
yellow. Grows in sun or shade and well drained soil. Height 1.7m
Spread 1.7m. Male. • Aucuba Japonica Rozannie. Very handsome shrub
which has large, toothed and leathery green leaves. This all green
form is self pollinating and produces large red fruits in winter.
Grows in any situation and any soil to about 1m. Male. • Aucuba
Japonica Variegata. Evergreen, bushy, dense shrub grown for it's
yellow spotted leathery leaves. Height 7 ft. Spread 7 ft. Requires
any reasonable soil. Will thrive in sun or shade. Plant with
crotonifolia for berries. Can be kept as a colourful hedge or as a
specimen plant. Female. As regards your Beauty Berry (Callicarpa
bodinieri var. giraldii Profusion). The lovely purple berries will
gradually drop off, or get eaten by the birds, before the end of the
winter which is normal. It will remain bare until it begins to
produce its leaves then small pink flowers around July. |
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Question |
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I have got some branches on our pear tree where the
buds are not opening - should I cut them back or just leave it? |
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If the tree is the right size and shape for you then
I’d leave it. However, you may want to read the RHS article below
for information on how to prune your tree should you wish.
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles1101/fruit_tree.asp |
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Question |
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Now that the buds are out on the roses does this mean
that I can cut them with an outward facing slope away from a bud at
a height of 6 inches from the base now. Can I cut the honeysuckle
back to 6 inches as well now, |
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I would wait until all risk of frost has passed
because if you get a hard frost it can cause the tips of shrubs to
die back. This die-back can be trimmed off but if the shrub is at
its lowest height you will have nothing left to trim away. You
should be OK to do it at the middle of April. You will still get a
good display so don’t worry, you’ll be surprised how quickly they
will grow from May onwards. You method sounds good but don’t forget
to give them a little feed of fertilizer. You can buy one
specifically for roses or you can use blood, fish and bone meal
which can be used on all your plants. A mulch of well rotted manure
around the base will also be good to keep down weeds and help
improve the structure of the soil. |
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Leaves on the hyacinth are going yellow. Can I cut
them to the base, remove bulbs from the indoor pot and plant in the
garden now? Any thoughts as to where best and how ie. depth etc to
plant them? |
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Yes you can cut them back and plant them out in the
garden. Here’s a link to my Bulbs page which should help you when
planting but the general rule is three times its own depth in a
sunny position. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/bulbs.htm |
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i have recently bought some of the pretty flowering
heathers you see at this time of year but know little about them i
did hear that they need to be planted i the special compost you use
for azaleas and rhodedendrons also how long do they flower for i am
told the ones you see in the garden centres are all forced has i
beleive they do not flower until early summer do i prune them when
they finish flowering and when should i feed them thank you for any
advice you can provide |
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There are two types of heather so I’ll give you the
details for both. The first type is the “Erica” variety. These
heathers do prefer acid soil but they will tolerate slightly
alkaline soil, either way it needs to be well-drained and placed in
a sunny spot. If you don’t know how acidic your soil is then it
would be best to plant into pots using Ericaceous compost although
its not essential. This type of heather flowers January to March and
should be trimmed after flowering with shears or secateurs to remove
the dead flowers and encourage bushy growth. The second type is “Calluna”.
They like full sun and well-drained, humus-rich, acid soil or
ericaceous compost. They flower July to November. In March or April
cut back the flowered shoots to within 2.5cm (1in) of the old
growth. |
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My husband would like to know are than any certain
types of methods used to make top soil more firm?? He's clearing out
some land and the soil is too soft to hold weight. |
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Answer |
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I’m not entirely certain I understand exactly what
the problem is but I think it is one of the following. The top soil
may be too “soft” meaning it is not compacted enough. If this is the
case then you should be able to carefully tread down the surface by
slowly walking around until it is firm. However, the problem may be
that the soil is too sandy, meaning that it has no substance and
keeps falling apart. The added problem here is that it will also be
very poor making it difficult to grow anything. If this is the case
then you need to improve the structure by adding lots and lots of
well rotted organic matter such as horse or cow manure. This can be
bought in bulk or, if you live near a farm or stables, you may get
it for free if you agree to collect it. If you have to go this route
then it will take some time for the soil to change and become more
substantial, perhaps as long as a year. To avoid weeds taking hold
while you’re waiting you could grow some green manure which will
subsequently be incorporated into the soil, again adding goodness.
Here is an article which might help. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/soil.htm#Green_manures0 |
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I recently purchased some really nice phormium
probally not a wise idea with the winds we get here on the edge of
the Pennines we have had some very strong winds recently and have
noticed some of the larger ones have had there stems damaged it does
not seem to have done any harm to the plants but i was wondering
should I cut the damaged stems or leave them if I have to cut them
how should I do it and when and will they produce new stems 2 I also
planted some cherry laurels in the fall last year to make a small
hedge again I suspect because of high winds they too have been
effected they are only a couple of feet high but seem very leggy has
they tend to lay more on their side rather than upright a friend
suggested planting them deeper or move to a more sheltered spot
easier said than done has sheltered spots in my garden are few and
far between I would welcome any views tips etc you can provide thank
you. |
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You will be Ok to cut out the damaged stems of the
Phormiums. You can cut them right down to the base. The best time
for this is late Spring so the timing is good. Once you’ve finished
add a mulch of well-rotted organic matter to promote new growth. The
laurels, as with any hedge, could probably do with some shelter
until it is well established. Do you have the space to erect a small
(say 3ft) temporary fence to the back of the hedge? It should be
placed on the side facing the worst of the winds. Something made of
bamboo or willow will ensure it looks good while waiting for the
hedge to fill out. For those plants which have fallen on their
sides, you should lift and replant upright otherwise you won’t get
an even hedge. You should be alright to do this now and once
finished mulch the whole of the hedge to help it along. If erecting
a fence is too expensive perhaps you could replant the fallen ones
then reduce the height of them all to reduce the affect of the wind.
Keep them small until they fill out and establish a good root
system. For info: use secateurs to prune your laurels cutting just
above a leaf joint. Shears will cut through the large, glossy leaves
and leave them looking damaged from which they’ll never recover. It
will take longer to complete the job but the final result will be so
much better. |
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my wife went out yesterday and came back with
herbaceous hellchrysum ruby cluster not come across this before
though looks like it can be a lovely plant the plant card suggests
plant in well drained soil and fertile soil water well yet reading
up on this the articles i can find suggest they prefer drought and a
poor soil which would not describe my soil has we dig in a lot of
quality compost and farmyard manure every year has for the weather
its pouring out of the skys again here in west yorks so like last
year doubt if drought will be a problem will they do ok in my
fertile soil and our what seems to be our semi permnant wet climate
it does annoy me the misleading information given on plant cards
especially has these were from homebase a massive chain also it
makes me wonder why plants that prefer poor soil and drought are
cultivated i mean most of us gardeners like to keep our soil in good
condition and if last year was anything to go by drought is a thing
of the past sorry for the moan any information you can give me on
this plant would be helpful thanks also is there a right time to top
dress the plants in our garden iwas going to do it this weekend if
we got some fine weather but with it been damp and cold and more
rain forcast is it worth waiting until weather gets better my wife
thinks with this cold damp weather a lot o fplants are still dormant
a lot of my daffs are still to flower though planted them late last
year will top dressing be worthwhile now was my question thank you
once again for your valuable advice i think we would have given up
gardening a long time ago if we did not have a place to go for what
is always sound advice please keep up the good work it really is
apreciated |
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Answer |
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There are both annual and perennial varieties of
Helychrysum. I assume yours is the perennial variety. I have done
some research and it seems that it does prefer a poor soil and not
too much water, there are more details below. As it requires
overwintering indoors you may want to consider growing it in a pot.
You can either use soil from part of your garden, or a neighbours
garden, which hasn’t had much enrichment. Alternatively add a good
quantity of sand or grit to normal compost before potting up. This
will reduce the goodness and increase the drainage. It is amazing
the amount of people who write in and say that the description on
the plant label is incorrect. I suspect less people would buy them
if they thought the growing conditions were special. Helychrysum
Ruby Cluster With most plants, gardeners eagerly await the opening
of the buds into their final, full-flowered form. Not so in the case
of 'Ruby Cluster', whose buds are as attractive and interesting as
the flowers they will become - perhaps even more so. Foliage is
attractive all summer, especially if given a light shearing after
flowering. Height: 8 to 10 inches Width: 8 to 10 inches Sun: Full
sun Soil Moisture: Well drained but not very fertile Culture:
Thrives in well-drained but not very fertile soil. Like many plants
with woolly foliage, it is remarkably drought-tolerant but needs
protection from excess moisture to overwinter outdoors. Give a light
shearing after flowering. |
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Question |
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We're having block paving laid in our front garden
and around my treasured Acer tree. What sort of Perimeter around the
tree should be left open ground so that it will get enough water to
survive? |
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Answer |
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It sounds like your tree is well established, if so,
it should be getting it’s water supply from deep below the soil.
However in order to ensure it doesn’t dry out too much in drought
conditions leave a border 6” to 10” wide all around the trunk.
Remove any grass or weeds and add a good layer of mulch (e.g. well
rotted manure) to help retain as much moisture as possible. I think
the most important thing to do is to make sure the builders don’t
damage the Acer’s roots when they are digging out to lay the blocks.
You may want to clear that area for them to ensure it’s done
correctly. |
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Question |
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i planted a lot of nasturtium
seeds in a old wheelbarrow about 2weeks ago has the directions on
the packets said plant march to April. Then the cold snap came and
we had a frost the other night i am wondering if that will have
killed of the seeds i grew these last year and they were superb but
it was a lot milder last spring should i wait a week or two to see
if they sprout or buy more seeds and replant when the danger of
frost has passed if that ever happens this year winter just seems to
go on and on thanks for any advice you can give me |
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Answer |
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Nasturtiums are hardy annuals which means that they
can be planted directly in the ground without any protection. So, in
theory, they should be fine with the cold weather. The only thing
that may affect them is if the soil becomes too wet. Give them
another couple of weeks and if there is no sign of germination,
re-sow at the end of April. |
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Question |
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hi can anyone please help? i am looking for a paeonia
tree i have no idea what they look like i am trying to buy one for
my friends birthday any help information about this plant/tree would
be most helpful also can anyone tell me were to buy one from? I live
in Derbyshire. |
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Answer |
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At this time of year Tree Peonies are only just
starting to show signs of life as lose their leaves each winter.
Most garden centres sell them but they won't look like much, just a
bunch of twigs! But rest assured it doesn't take long for them to
take off and put on wonderful displays. If you can't find them at
your local garden centre then here is a link to a variety at
Crocus.co.uk. They have a number of different colours to choose
from. http://clkuk.tradedoubler.com/click?p(979)a(1087930)g(74608)url(http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/shrubs/paeonia-light-pink/itemno.PL30000010/) |
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Question |
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I am a new gardener with a garden I have owned for a
year. I have 2 Cistus (sorry know idea what the variety is) that are
approx 2 metres high bushes-one has a pink flower and the other a
white flower with a yellow and deep red centre. The flowers are open
saucer type shape about 1 and half inches across. Now that spring is
here...ish they look very leggy with foliage starting about half way
up. The foliage looks very healthy. It flowered beautifully last
summer. What should I do to them? and when? |
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Answer |
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All Cistus benefit from being lightly trimmed
directly after flowering has finished. This will keep the buses in
good shape and stop them going leggy. I’m afraid that if they are
already leggy there is not much you can do about it now. However,
you could try pruning as low into the healthy, green growth as you
can go to see if it will improve the look of the plants. Don’t cut
into the old, bear wood as it will never recover. |
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Question |
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My two lawns are slowly being strangled to death by
moss (my fault) can I completely reverse this process by just using
several applications of something like Evergreen or will I have to
get it dug up and re-turfed. |
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Answer |
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If most of your lawn is moss then once treated and
the moss has died all you will be left with is soil. The chances of
grass re-growing is very slim so you may be best starting again as
you suggest. Don’t forget, you can hire turf cutters to avoid having
to dig it up by hand. Wyevale hire them out for £52 for 48 hours.
There is a link to them on my front page
http://gardeningregister.co.uk. If the moss is just in patches
then you could treat the patches slowly overtime allowing time for
each area to re-grow or seeding the gaps. Have a look at my lawn
pages for more information
http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/Lawns/lawns_problems.htm |
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i received half a dozen lady
booth by fuchsias yesterday they came has small plugs which i was
somewhat disappointed in and no planting on instructions whilst it
described them has hardy i doubt they would be at moment there were
5 in the pack so i have transferred them to a large pot on my
kitchen window sill for now though some one suggested i should plant
them individually in smallish pots will they survive on my kitchen
window sill and when should i think of planting out and how often
should i feed and water them whilst there indoors thanks has usual
for any advice you can give me. |
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Answer |
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I always say I’m not going to buy plug plants again
but I recently bought the new blue fuchsia. There were five plants
which came as small plugs just like yours. I planted them into
individual small pots and have left them on my windowsill. So far
two have died off but the other three look OK and I think they will
pull through. Unfortunately this is the problem with buying plugs
but the benefit is that they are cheaper than buying bigger plants.
I wonder sometimes if it is actually a false economy! If you can,
transplant the plugs into small individual pots, pinch out the tops
to make them bushier and give them a good watering. However, don’t
overwater them as I think this is why mine died off. What I have now
done, which seems to be working, is placed the small pots onto a
tray and lined the tray with kitchen roll paper. As long as the
paper remains damp the plants will be able to draw water up through
the soil. If your window gets a lot of direct sun you may want to
consider moving them to somewhere less hot. My variety is hardy but
I won’t be planting them out until well into May when I’m sure they
will be strong enough to survive. Before I actually put them out for
good I will gradually get them used to the outside by putting them
out for the day and bringing them in overnight for a few weeks. If
you are not sure if yours are hardy or not consider planting them in
containers or hanging baskets. You can then bring them indoors for
next winter and put them out again the following spring. |
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I have a corkscrew hazel that's healthy about 2metres
high that has catkins on it at the moment but....its in the wrong
place (well I think it is!) can I move it and when? I really like it
but its at the front of a terraced bed and looks wrong to me. I have
some really lovely plants in this garden. It's a great way to learn. |
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Answer |
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Moving trees is always a risky business but it can be
done. Here is a link to my Planting page which should help you:
http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/planting.htm.
You are best to wait until the tree is dormant i.e. autumn to give
it the best chance of survival. The important thing is to prepare
the new hole before you dig up the tree to ensure it doesn’t dry out
during transplantation. Once re-planted keep it well watered even if
it rains. |
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Question |
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What can I plant in a pair of wellingtons please. I
know about drainage holes and grit below the compost. would lavender
survive in these conditions or can you offer me an alternative. |
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Answer |
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Planting into a pair of wellingtons is a great idea.
You could grow practically anything in them including herbs and
small variety vegetables. The important thing, as you say, is to
ensure that there are plenty of drainage holes and grit or stones in
the bottom so that they plants aren’t sitting in water. Lavenders
and most herbs like dry conditions so won’t need as much watering.
Other plants, particularly vegetables will need watering everyday. |
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We are growing a cabbage plant for my son's school
project. When the cabbage plant is placed in the sun, the leaves
begin to wilt. What should we do? We appreciate your help. |
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Answer |
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I assume the cabbage is still seedling sized. If this
is the case then it really should be indoors; on a windowsill will
be fine. Once the weather heats up a bit and all risk of frost has
passed, usually the end of May, you will be able to put it outside.
Once outside, feed it once a week and keep it well watered. |
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I'm having a go at growing some seeds. I have sown
them into trays with lids on and put them on my window sill. The
hollyhock seedlings have come up, the stem is about 4cm long with
two little leaves on the top. Are these too leggy. I wondered if
they were too warm and come up too quickly with the lid on. I have
lots of other veg and flowers with lids on so thought I should check
with you before they all go the same way.....if its wrong! |
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Answer |
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Most seeds get leggy, to help avoid it you need to
remove the tips of the plants as soon as the second set of leaves
have appear. If you keep doing this the seedlings will become bushy
and the roots stronger. However, Hollyhocks are hardy annuals and
should really be sown directly into the soil where you want them to
grow. They are quite fast growing and tall which is probably why
they are 4cm with only two leaves. To save wasting these seedlings
I’d take the lids off and put them somewhere a bit cooler but still
with plenty of light. They will be able to go out into the ground
with the others. In the meantime you may want to sow some more seeds
into the ground as a guarantee. |
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Question |
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I have an allotment and am currently growing
potatoes. In the surface soil there are lots of insects that look
like small, very thin, orange millipedes. Can you advise me what
these are and how to eradicate them? |
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Answer |
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It sounds to me to be Wireworm which is the larvae of
the click beetle. They attack many ornamental plants as well as
vegetables causing plant to wilt due to the larvae feeding on the
roots. Underground vegetables and tubers will have small burrowed
tunnels. Leaves may have holes at the edges where adults feed during
the summer.
Details • Newly hatched larvae
are very small and white. • Larvae grow to 3cm in length, and
develop a tough, golden brown skin. They have three pairs of short,
stout legs. • Larvae feed on roots of plants, and burrow into
tubers. Potatoes are particularly susceptible. • The larval period
can last up to four years. • Larvae move up and down in the soil
depending on moisture levels. • Pupation occurs about 30cm below the
soil surface in a small chamber. • After three to four weeks adults
hatch and remain in the soil to overwinter. • Adults emerge in
summer to mate. • When overturned, click beetles propel themselves
into the air by arching their back and snapping their head back.
This action makes a clicking sound.
There are no effective chemicals available for
wireworm control but you can try the following organic methods. •
Regularly cultivate soil in spring and summer. • Early lifting of
susceptible crops will minimise damage. • Encourage insectivorous
birds by hanging feeders and bird boxes.
To prevent it happening next year: • Inspect
compost heaps for wireworms and remove any you find. • Do not plant
susceptible crops in known infested areas. • Thoroughly turn soil in
autumn to expose wireworms to predators. |
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Although I am 57 years old i am new to gardening,3
years only. I have a major problem with cats, and have been assured
by an old gardener that putting out banana skins in my borders will
help reduce and maybe solve the problem altogether. Another has said
that it cannot hurt, at least it will put some goodness (nitrogen)
back into the soil. I try to grow perennial plants mainly are there
any plants that you can suggest that will grow well in nitrogen
enriched soil. |
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Answer |
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I have not heard of using banana skins to deter cats
but sometimes the old ways are the best. My solution is to leave as
little bare earth as possible or by using a large grade gravel which
they can’t dig easily. As for nitrogen loving plants. All plants
need nitrogen and will take what they need from the soil, leaving
the rest behind which usually gets washed away with the rain. The
most important indicator of which plants you can grow well is the
acidity of the soil. If you have an acid soil (pH below 7) you will
be able to grow such plants as Hydrangea and Rhododendron but they
won’t grow well in soil which is above a pH of 7. However, if you do
have a pH greater than 7 then you will be able to grow most plants
available in your garden centre. You can buy a pH soil tester quite
cheaply at your garden centre. |
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Question |
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I have
just moved to a garden 17ft by 30ft of very uneven bumpy grass with
a concrete pat hdown the middle i have started digging the top grass
and trying to rake it all level this is taking me agesis there an
easier way as I am goin to lay patio slabs over it all in the end
anyway. ill appreciate any tips you have thankyou |
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Answer |
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This type
of job is never easy but these days there are ways to make it a bit
easier. First of all you should consider hiring the correct
equipment for the job. It will be more expensive than doing it
manually but will be worth it in the end in terms of time and
effort. There are a number of hire companies who have local stores,
such as HSS. However, Wyevale garden centres also do hiring on-line
and offer delivery and collection. You need to start with a Turf
Cutter which will remove the turf and leave it rolled up to make it
easy to dispose of. The turf themselves make excellent compost when
left to rot down. Once you’ve removed the turf you may want to hire
a Rotavator to loosen the soil before finally using a roller to
flatten it in preparation for laying your slabs. There are lots of
machines available to help you so I have added a link to the Turf
Cutter page at Wyevale. From there you can have a look at all the
equipment available. http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=QJkM6bnhKCw&offerid=136505.651603295&type=10&subid= |
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Question |
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Everyyear
my blackcurrent bushes get infested with Gooseberry Sawfly. I want
to use an effect insecticide but one which will not kill garden
helpers like Ladybirds ... etc. Apparently in the last three years
nictine based insecticides have appeared on the market which have
been linked with hive death. I hate using anything chemical on my
garden but these critters are the limit! |
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Answer |
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I’m with
you as regards chemicals in the garden but I haven’t come across
anything which kills flying insects and does not kill ladybirds etc.
If the Sawfly are a real problem it may be worth using an organic
pesticide to get it under control. If you keep the spraying in a
confined area and do it on a still day you should limit the damage
to other insects. Here are a few recommended by the RHS: Bio Liquid
Derris Plus Py Garden Insect Killer Scotts Natures Answer Natural
Bug Killer Gen Stop Bugs Doff All in One Insecticide Spray. |
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Question |
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I planted
a wide range of different types of tulips last year in pots and have
had some superb tulips this spring I would like to keep them to use
again next year should I lift them out of the pots and store
somewhere or would they be better in the ground though I have little
space amongst my other plants and only a small dark shed to store
things I thought about putting seasonal bedding over them but has
live on a council estate some health and safety jobs worth has told
us to cut down on pots if I have to lift them how long should I wait
after they finish flowering last summer the ones I had in the ground
I left for around two weeks and then threw some compost over them
and planted over them and they have come back better than ever this
year also now my daffs have finished flowering how long should I
leave them to die down before I can mow over them has they look
untidy now and need to cut my grass soon I seem to remember when I
was kid my mum used to tie them in knots for some reason any advice
would be most welcome thank you |
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Answer |
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Tulips can
be short-lived if left in the ground for too many years so I would
lift them and plant them into pots again next autumn. You need to
wait until all the green foliage has turned brown but you need to
remove the spent flower and the seed pod which will form below the
flower. This stops the plant trying to produce seed and puts all its
energy into producing “food” in the bulb. Once they have turned
brown carefully lift the bulbs, remove all soil and spread them out
on newspaper to dry. Once dry remove any leftover soil and put them
individually into paper bags or wrap in newspaper. Then store them
somewhere dry and dark. Your shed sounds perfect but make sure they
are kept dry. Your daffodils need to die back completely and just
like the tulips you need to remove the spent flowers. I know they
look unsightly but they need this dying down stage to produce the
“food” for next year. Once they are brown you will be able to mow
over them. I have seen some people tying them in knots but in my
view this inhibits the flow of the goodness back into the bulb so I
wouldn’t do it. |
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Question |
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We have
six cupressus sempervirens growing in pots on a terrace in Southern
Spain. Trees were bought at height of 12ft leaves on lower parts are
going brown and some on upper, no signs of parasites or obvious
infections. We have had them about 10 weeks being watered daily but
sparingly. Any idea's or advice would be really apreciated before
any further deterioration. Please could you advise on watering
frequency as well? |
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Answer |
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Cupressus
sempervirens likes well-drained, acidic, dry, sandy soil and it can
easily be damaged by cold winds and being waterlogged. The first
thing to check is that the terrace they’re on isn’t too windy. Even
though you are in Southern Spain, they winds over the last 10 weeks
may have been chilly, particularly at night. They will probably be
OK for the summer but if they are left over winter the browning will
get worse. The next thing is to check that the soil they are planted
in is well-drained. Place the pots on “feet” to allow the water to
flow away and not be left to puddle under the pots. Take one of the
plants and water thoroughly, watch to see if it drains all the way
through quite quickly. If it does then the drainage is OK, if not
then the soil may not contain enough sand or grit. I realise that is
would be a mammoth job to re-pot trees of this size but it may be
worth it in the long run. Use a good quality compost mixed with grit
or horticultural sand. Add a mulch on the top of the soil to keep
moisture in. While the trees are young you will need to keep them
well watered, probably daily. Push a finger into the soil to check
that it is moist. As they establish they will manage in drier
conditions. |
