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Questions and Answers 2007

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Question:

i planted 30or 40 gladiola bulbs in late may most have grown to a decent height not one has flowered i have fed and watered regualar to no avail should i forget about them and dig them up or is there hope yet thanks for any tips

Gladiola corms should be planted between March and May so yours were planted at the latest possible for flowering this year. However, they can flower up to the end of September so you may still get some this year. I leave my bulbs in over the winter, covering with a good layer of mulch. They have just started to flower this last week so you should get earlier flowers next year.

Question:

We have just moved to a village in Cambridgeshire where the garden hasn't been touched for many years. All we've done so far is cut the grass and clear away the brambles to reveal a small stream and a field. The view is great but we don't know what to do next. We'd like to save the grass,a s we have rabbits and feel a new lawn might be a waste of money. Also there is a high terrace next to the house which needs to be lowered. What should we do first?

As a rule you should always deal with hard landscaping first. This will avoid any work carried out on the planting being ruined by workmen. Therefore I would have someone in to lower the terrace and carry out any additional hard landscaping you may need. You also need to consider the brambles which have a habit of reappearing if not dealt with properly. Although this may take some time it will be worth it in the long run. There are two ways you can deal with them, one a lot easier than the other! The easiest way of dealing with them is to let them grow a little and apply a weed killer containing glyphosate e.g. Weedol 2 - An economical weed killer that can be used all round the garden except on lawns, unless you want to kill them. Weedol doesn't harm the soil so planting can be carried out immediately after treatment but keep away from children and pets. 12 sachet carton treats 204m². Please ensure you read the manufacturer's instructions before using. If you don’t fancy the thought of using weed killer you can dig over the whole area and remove the plants and roots by hand. Don’t be tempted to use a rotavator because this will chop up and spread the roots far and wide from which the brambles will re-grow. Once the area has been cleared you can begin planting up, however, can I suggest that you prepare the site very well before planting. Dig over the area and water well, cover with a weed suppressing membrane. Cut crosses in the fabric and plant through the holes to help suppress any future weeds. If you don't want to replace your lawn you can carry out some routine maintenance to help it look it's best. Visit my lawn page for more details http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/Lawns/lawns_home.htm

Question:

Can you tell me how to get rid of dead ivy that has stuck to brickwork and leaves a trail

First of all cut off the plant at the base to stop it re-shooting. If the ivy has grown into the cracks of the brinks you could end up pulling out parts of the wall as well. Clipping ivy off the surface is slow work, but it's better than risking the possible damage. The process will leave little rootlets still attached to the wall, but over time (usually about a season) they'll dry up and fall away. Immediately after taking off the ivy, wash the wall with a stiff-bristled brush and a solution of laundry detergent and water. This will remove the ivy's adhesive pads, which held it to the wall. If you let these pads dry before you attempt to remove them, they'll be almost impossible to get off.

Question:

I have a project to complete but no idea how to start. I have to clear an overgrown garden and long drive, its at my home in Italy and I am a little worried about the cut grass and weeds in the sun after they are cut. Any advice would be more than welcome. I do have a strimmer and could use some tips on using that as well.

This sounds like a big project. I have found an article on a good website which will take you through dealing with an overgrown garden step-by-step. I hope it helps. http://www.greenfingers.com/articledisplay.asp?id=320. As for using a strimmer; keep the string head about 2-3 ins off the ground and sweep the machine side to side in a steady motion parallel to the ground. When trimming tall weeds start at the top of the weeds so that the string cuts them into little pieces and don't get tangled around the head.

Question:

One of our Pine Trees is infested with caterpillars. How to we treat and will the tree survive.

I'm sorry to hear about your Pine Tree but it will survive. The best way to deal with caterpillars is to pick them off one by one and dispose of them. You should also look for small clusters of eggs on the underside of leaves, rub these off to stop them from hatching. Another natural control for caterpillars is an organism called Bacillus thuringiensis, which destroys the caterpillar from the inside. If this solution isn't practical, and you don't mind using chemicals, there are pesticides available to most DIY Stores and Garden Centres which will do the job.

Question:

You can plant herbs in an ordinary all purpose compost mixed with a quantity of sharp sand or gravel to aid drainage. Also add some crocks (broken up terracotta pots or pieces of polystyrene packaging) to the bottom of the pot to stop the roots sitting in water. Just a small note: if you want to plant mint you should keep it in a pot of its own as it tends to take over and smother other plants.

Question:

i bought a couple of small passion flower cuttings in early march put them into two medium sized tubs and have been amazed at the results one is know about 5ft having been in a bit of a shady area the other must be approaching 10ft and shows no sign of stopping is this normal for this type of plant and is it wise to cut it back at any time

Some Passion Flowers are very vigorous so I'm not surprised at the rate of growth. Keeping them in pots will restrict the overall growth so you may be OK but if you feel they are getting out of hand then cut them back in Autumn. They aren't fussy about how they are pruned so you can reduce them to whatever size you wish. You are best to keep them well fed as, being in pots, they will run out of nutrients in time.

Question:

On yesterday's screening of the BBC Tv programme "The Great British Village Show" by Alan Titchmarch, a lady making strawberry jam is shown picking the strawberries from an avenue of plants growing at shoulder height. IE the plants appear to be growing at the top of a tree trunk. Is it likely that what was shown were simply containers mounted on wooden posts or have plants been developed that grow at shoulder height.

I didn't catch The Great British Village Show but I'm sure that the strawberries must have been grown in raised containers or hanging baskets. Elevating the plants means that the fruits are not resting on soil and are therefore less likely to rot. They are also easier to harvest. Looks like an excellent idea.

Question:

I would like to know what plants i can have in my garden that will attract butterflies. Also I have a Kilmarnock Willow tree in my garden that i planted last year and this year it is covered in ants. The leaves aren't as green this year they're a bit yellowy and I'm wondering what i can do to get rid of the ants.

I have attached a link to a page on my website which will give you some ideas as to how to attract butterflies: http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/Butterfly/plants.htm. I have also included a link to the RHS page on dealing with ants: http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles0701/ants.asp

Question:

A small eucalyptus tree (planted last summer) is losing its leaves. They are tuning orange then red and then dropping off. Read may be a "nutritional problem" but how do I solve. Help please!

The leaf loss is normal for a mature tree. I have one myself and the lawn is covered in fallen leaves as it is each summer. Here is a link to a good website which you may enjoy: http://www.eucalyptus.co.uk/homepage.asp

Question:

i have a really lovely honeysuckle which i planted this year and has done really well until now whilst it has many suckles and many more ready to bloom i have noticed some of the leaves are shrivelling up and going brown i keep it watered regular when needed and fed with tomato food and miracle grow regular i have removed the dead leaves am i been overly concerned and will it produce new leaves any advice on honey suckles welcomed thanks

I'm afraid the symptoms you describe are normal for honeysuckle. The lower leaves of the plant die off leaving the healthy leaves and flowers at the top. All you can do is to keep it well pruned to ensure the flowers are at eye level. What I did was to grow it along with an Ivy. The Ivy drapes the wall with healthy green leaves and the honeysuckle clings to the Ivy. The bare stems of the honeysuckle then blend into the Ivy and are not so visible.

Question:

I live in Spain and have been growing three beautiful honeydew melons, they are quite large and starting to ripen but to my horror this morning I found that one has started to split, what can I do?

I have done a bit of research and it seems that they are being over watered once they are ripe. You should harvest the fruits as soon as the end furthest from the stalk gives a little when pressed. At this stage you should cut down on the watering and allow the compost to become drier than normal. Over watering at this stage will cause the fruits to split.

Question:

I would need a little more information to correctly identify the grub in question. Alternatively, here is a link to the BBC’s pest identifier. Just answer the questions as they appear and it should find the grub.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/advice/pests_and_diseases/

Question:

we would like to know more about growing yellow squash.

I am actually based in England so I have found the attached article which may help you. http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/veggies/ssquash1.html

Question:

we have just moved house and the garden seems to be overun with alchemilla, can you please tell me how i can get rid of most of it, i do know it self seeds and its just starting to come into flower. there is a lot of ivy growing between the plants that needs removing

You will need to pull up the plants you no longer require. If you want to keep some of the plants, enjoy the flowers but remove them before they begin to set seed. If you are worried you may miss them then remove them now. You will find that they will stop seeding if you can remember to remove the flowers each year. Ivy can be pulled up and removed at any time but ensure you remove all the roots as it is quite robust and may grow back.

Question:

I have just bought a magnolia plant and would like advice on planting it out, my garden gets sunlight for about 8 hrs a day then it is shaded from 3.00pm.

Magnolias prefer full sun but are OK with some shade so it should do well in your garden. The best time to plant is in April but you can plant it now as long as you keep it well watered while it is being established. Try to plant it in a sheltered position and add plenty of well rotted compost to the planting hole and mulch with manure or leafmould. It requires minimal pruning. Remove any broken, diseased or crossing branches after flowering. Here is a link to my planting page which will give you a general guide to planting: http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/planting.htm

Question:

I am growing onions for the 1st time, they are now starting to produce flower heads, do I need to deflower them for bigger bulbs?

Generally onions should not flower and if they do they tend to produce smaller onions. Remove the flowers now and hope that they have not been affected too badly.

Question:

cordyline approx 10 feet in height, flowered once 3 years ago. last year it split into 3 branches. this year 2 branches are flowering . PROBLEM!! we have had it from 6 inches high in the same spot to the rear of atrellis fence which has a rowan type tree the other side tied into the trellis of 6 foot high .the cordyline(variety unknown) has many dry brown leaves also severe yellowing of many others. we treated the soil around it with growmore this year for the purpose of giving the bedding a boost. is this what is affecting the cordyline??the prevailing wind and rain is mostly from the south and as we are on a hill this hits the C/A full on. is this a possible reason for the yellowing?? please give us some advice if possible as we are the only ones in our estate with a cordyline and would hate to lose it.

The lower leaves of Cordylines turn brown and die off over time and the plant produces a stalk with the healthy leaves at the top. Just remove the dead leaves to make the plant look nicer tidy. It seems that Cordylines flourish on neglect so I wouldn’t worry about feeding it. If you are worried that it is outgrowing its current position you should be able to move it somewhere more suitable as long as you treat it with care and prepare the planting hole well.

Question:

How can I treat broad beans which have developed (I think) rust on the leaves, or at least red-brown spots? do I pull and burn them now or can they be treated until the beans form? and what is the risk to the rest of the veg plot?

I'm not certain that this is rust. I think it is either Halo Blight or Chocolate Spot. Either way you need to lift and destroy the affected plants and spray the remaining plants with carbendazim which you should be able to get from your garden centre.

Question:

I have 2 slopes in my back garden, one is part of a herb rockery and the other has been planted with flowers and grasses. Please let me know how I can put gravel onto the slopes without it all falling off during heavy rain..

It depends how much of a slope you have on your garden as to whether the gravel will stay in place. However in most circumstances it won’t work successfully. All you can do is to step the garden gradually to allow flatter areas for the gravel with a riser to keep it in place. If you are unable to do this amount of work then you may find that wood chippings will stay in place better.

Question:

We have a large garden with a lot of grass but our main problem is the steep grass banks. What we would like is to plant them up with dens low ground cover but as we have such a large area the cost is putting us off, so we are still cutting the banks!

I understand your problem with the steep bank and I hope you find my solution of help. There are two plants which immediately spring to mind. Firstly there is the Cotoneaster which spreads to 2 metres quite quickly and is extremely robust. Click on the name to see more information on Crocus. Secondly there is the Greater Periwinkle. This plant only spreads to 75cm but is very fast growing and has lovely lilac/blue flowers for most of the summer. Again click on the name for more details. When planting a large area it can be quite costly as you say. However, there are several companies who sell plants in bulk for just such a situation. They tend to be smaller than those you buy at a garden centre but they are a lot cheaper. I have found one website which has a whole section on ground cover plants at very good prices, take a look here http://www.hedging.co.uk/acatalog/Index_Ground_Cover_Plants_16.html

I have never used them so can’t offer any guarantees as to quality or service. Whatever you end up buying, can I suggest that you prepare the site very well before planting. Carefully remove the grass to ensure nothing is left behind. Leave for a couple of weeks to allow any weed seeds to germinate then pull these up or use a weedkiller. Before planting water the area well and cover with a weed suppressing membrane. Cut crosses in the fabric and plant through the holes. This will keep the weeds down whilst the plants are being established.

Question:

We have just brought a cottage in France and I need some advice re planting. We have a bank at the side on the cottage which has fairly good soil on where Ivy and Brambles have been going for many years. The Ivy root was about 5" in round. We have got all the Ivy and Brambles cut to ground level and have black plastic over them at the moment. We are looking for a rapid growing plant that will smother all the roots and have flowers on in the summer and foliage in the winter. Please help - an impatient gardener.

Ivy and brambles are very difficult to eradicate but there are two ways you can deal with them, one a lot easier than the other! The easiest way of dealing with them is to let the plants grow a little and apply weedkiller containing glyphosate. I’ve done a bit of research and found the following weedkillers which sound good. I don’t know if they sell them in France but there should be an equivalent: Weedol 2 - An economical weedkiller that can be used all round the garden except on lawns, unless you want to kill them. Weedol doesn't harm the soil so planting can be carried out immediately after treatment. Young green suckers of roses, lilac and plums can also be killed without harming the rootstock. Effective at any time of the year, Weedol is rainproof in 10 minutes. Contains diquat. Keep away from children and pets. 12 sachet carton treats 204m² Roundup Weedkiller - will completely kill all weeds and roots. Children and pets don't need to be excluded from treated areas as it is biodegradable and starts to break down as soon as it touches the soil. It contains the chemical glyphosate and includes measuring cap for easy measuring. Do not use on lawns or other wanted plants as it will kill everything plant it touches. 280ml treats 280m² Here are a few general rules to bear in mind when using weedkiller: • Read the manufacturer’s instructions to be sure you are using the right weedkiller for the job. • Keep weedkiller off plants that you want to keep. • Dissolve/dilute the weedkiller according to instructions on the packaging and apply weeds using a fine rose (sprinkler head) on a watering can which you only use for weedkiller. • Don’t apply on a windy day because weedkillers can drift onto other plants. • The most effective time to apply weedkillers is when weeds are leafy and growing actively, mid-spring to early summer is ideal. • Keep weedkillers in a safe place, out of reach from children and pets. When empty, dispose of them carefully. Not all weeds will die so repeat applications may be needed. If you don’t fancy the thought of using weedkiller you can dig over the whole area and remove the plants and roots by hand. Don’t be tempted to use a rotavator because this will chop up and spread the roots far and wide from which the plants will re-grow. There are two plants which may be suitable for you. Firstly there is the Cotoneaster which spreads to 2 metres quite quickly and is extremely robust. Click on the name to see more information on Crocus. Secondly there is the Greater Periwinkle. This plant only spreads to 75cm but is very fast growing and has lovely lilac/blue flowers for most of the summer. Again click on the name for more details. When planting a large area it can be quite costly but there are several companies who sell plants in bulk for just such a situation. They tend to be smaller than those you buy at a garden centre but they are a lot cheaper. I have found one website which has a whole section on ground cover plants at very good prices, take a look here for more ideas http://www.hedging.co.uk/acatalog/Index_Ground_Cover_Plants_16.html. I have never used this company so can’t offer any guarantees as to quality or service. Whatever plants you end up buying, can I suggest that you prepare the site very well before planting. Once the plants have died down leave for a couple of weeks to allow any annual weed seeds to germinate then pull these up. Before planting, water the area well and cover with a weed suppressing membrane. Cut crosses in the fabric and plant through the holes. This will keep the weeds down whilst the plants are being established.

Question:

As the price of water is very high, I would like to know if using the shower water and the water from the washing machine when it is on its rinsing spins will be OK for watering the garden?

Water used for washing up, washing clothes or bathing in is known as grey water and is perfectly fine for use in the garden. I have attached a link to a website I’ve found which will give you more information on making the most of watering your garden. http://www.bbc.co.uk/dna/h2g2/A1132534

Question:

I have a Stella Cherry Tree in my garden which is approx 5 years old. It has never fruited although flowers profusely. The petals drop off followed by the twin stalks. I check the tree daily as I have been advised before that the tree probably does fruit but the birds take them. I have yet to see any fruit growth.

The Stella Cherry tree is a vigorous grower and should begin fruiting at between one and two years. My first thought would be, as you say, that the birds are getting to them before you can. However, it may be that the tree isn’t getting enough water which may mean that the fruit doesn’t swell and develop. First ensure the tree is getting enough water and if the tree isn’t too big you could try to cover it with netting to keep the birds away.

Question:

Many grass-free spaces started to appear sporadically. Is there anything I could do to save it? Is there a certain fertilizer I could use or chemicals? N.B. My 10 years old son plays football on the grass. Is this the reason?

There is a good chance that your son playing football is causing bald spots on your lawn. We have had a particularly dry spring which means that the grass may not be getting chance to recover once damaged by the football games. Now we have had a spell of rain the lawn may well recover. If you have not had rain recently, and your area does not have a hose-pipe ban, try using a sprinkler. If the patches are really bad, and do not recover after watering, then you may need to re-seed. I have attached a link to my webpage with instructions. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/Lawns/lawns_producefromseed.htm

Question:

Could you please advise me when the best time to hang my hanging baskets outside, they are currently indoors.

The guideline is that you can put your hanging baskets outside once the risk of frost has passed. This will vary depending where you live but May is usually safe, just keep an eye on the weather forecast and bring them indoors again if frost is forecast.

Question:

I've gardened for more than twenty years now - both indoors and out - and have had my first encounter with mites indoors this winter. I've just had the opportunity to bring the indoor plants outdoors to begin washing leaves routinely to treat this epidemic among my indoor houseplants. This is going well, but a too hot day crept up on me without me thinking and I have now seriously burned a number of the leaves of the indoor plants that I left outdoors while treating for mites. So, my question is "Are these plants now lost and should be tossed out or can I rescue them somehow?" I have over 30 indoor plants so I don't want to list them all here, but examples of those burned are: bromeliad, aloe, dieffenbachia, peace lily, prayer plant, anthurium, corn plant, snake plant, philodendron, radicalis palm, dracaena, etc. Only the cacti, rubber plant, gardenias and geraniums seem unaffected. Thanks for any help you can give me/us. We really hope to find a means to salvage our houseplants.

Sorry to hear about the problem with your houseplants. I would doubt that the burned leaves themselves will recover but the plants should be ok. I think you need to remove the affected leaves and continue looking after your plants the way you have for the last twenty years. Given time they should be as good as new.

Question:

I have a conifer that grew well for about 20 years until my son-in-law butchered it a couple of years ago. It is now mostly brown with just a few green branches and green leaves in the bottom 75% of it and only the top 25% still looking green and healthy. Is there anything I can do to try and save this tree? If I have to get it removed, I have been told that no other tree (including another conifer) would grow where a conifer has once stood. But as this is the only place in my garden that I can add height, is there any way at all that I could grow another conifer or other narrow tree in its place? Say by sinking some kind of large container into the ground for instance?

Unfortunately most conifers dislike being chopped hard back and rarely re-grow from old wood. I’m afraid there isn’t anything you will be able to do to save it. I have a small conifer which has suffered in a similar way. Instead of replacing it I have grown an ivy up it. I think it looks pretty good as the parts of the conifer that did survive look good poking through the ivy. I have not heard that you cannot plant a conifer where one has previously grown. However, if you are worried then ensure you remove all the old roots and dig a very big hole removing the soil. Replace the soil with new soil and the new conifer should be OK. You can also grow the conifer in a container, as you say, this will restrict the size and will require watering regularly but it should be foolproof.

Question:

I would like to plant a small garden tree but am unsure which to choose. I don't know how much information you need - so here goes! I want to plant it in a border in front of a 5' tall fence that faces roughly north east. At the moment the rest of the border is empty and the fence divides my garden from my neighbour on the other side of our semi, so is fairly open - certainly the branches of the tree might take some battering from the wind on occasion, although the fence would shelter the trunk as we tend to get winds that blow roughly from west to east and vice versa. The soil is mainly clay and the trunk of the tree would be in the shade from the fence for more than half the day. I would like something that would not grow much more than around 15 feet and that would tolerate being pruned so that I can control the height (don't want to upset the neighbours!)

I have read through your email and I don’t think we’ll struggle to find something suitable for your garden. However, I’m not sure that a tree is what you need. I think most of them will grow too tall for you. Having said that, below are a few examples of small trees which you may decide are OK. Just click on the name to be taken to Crocus for more information. Standard Cotoneaster – red berries Laburnum – dangling yellow flowers but they are poisonous Crab Apple - colourful flowers in spring Ornamental Cherry - colourful flowers in spring Japanese Flowering Cherry – colourful flowers in spring Kilmarnock Willow – yellow catkins Mountain Ash – berries during the autumn with good leaf colour Witch Hazel – highly scented flowers in January. I think that perhaps a large shrub would be more suitable. All of these shrubs can be cut back to any size you like. They all like clay soil and don’t mind a little shade. You may need to ensure they are protected from high winds while they are getting established. Butterfly Bush (Buddleia) – This will have to be cut back to around 2ft high each Autumn or Spring to ensure plenty of flowers the following season but it is extremely robust and will take lots of abuse. They also come in a wide variety of colours so you’ll have plenty of choice. Californian Lilac – lovely blue flowers and lots of varieties for shades and shape Flowering Quince – prune it to get the shape you want Mexican Orange – lovely smelling flowers Forsythia – must be pruned immediately after the flowering to ensure flowering next season Mallow – can be cut hard back to control growth Mock Orange – lovely smelling flowers. Remember not to plant too close to the fence.

Question:

i have a clematis montana which i bought last year. this year it has flowered for the first time. i have it in a container on a south facing wall. it has very few flowers. have i done something wrong with it. Also i have a passionflower, in its second year also. it looks very sad. what can i do.

Clematis Montana is usually an extremely vigorous plant and flowers profusely. I suspect that it may be too restricted in the pot or its roots are getting too hot. Cut it back to 2-3ft and re-pot into a bigger pot making sure that you plant it quite deeply; at least 2ins lower than it is now. Add some fertilizer and mulch over the top of the compost. Flowering is over for this year so it will have 10-11 months to gather resources for next year. Don’t forget to keep it well watered at all times and feed every 2-3 months. Passion Flowers vary depending on the variety. It is not too old so shouldn’t be pot-bound. Try giving it a feed and make sure it doesn’t dry out. Add a mulch to help keep the moisture in the soil. Some varieties are for indoors only so it may be that you have an indoor variety that is doing well! It will survive the summer but will need protecting throughout the winter.

Question:

at xmas i was bought two really nice cactus in a nice glass basket shaped planter they have done fine until yesterday i noticed one had literally uproot and keel over i tried to replant it but the same thing happened again i noticed it had turned from a nice healthy green with terracotta spikes to a near black colour i know its dead has you can pick it up without the spikes pricking you the other one is fine and healthy at the moment they have plenty of light and have been watered very very sparingly misted mainly has the instructions suggested i have several bottle gardens with various cactus plants in the house and all are fine so i am puzzled has to what's happened and concerned my others may go that way would be grateful if you can shed any light on what may have happened thank you

One of the problems about buying plants at xmas time is that they aren’t always of the best quality. They tend to produce lots and lots of the same displays without really checking them. I suspect you just got a bad one as cactus are usually very robust as I’m sure you know. I think you are best putting this down to experience and enjoy the rest of your healthy cactus.

Question:

I am wanting advice on my fatsia japonica (false castor oil) that has this year flowered and now has black berries. i read somewhere that the berries are poisonous but when you search online you get mixed reports. i have a young boy and don't want to risk him eating anything that could cause him harm.

I had not heard that the Fatsia Japonica was poisonous so did some research myself. Most of the websites I use regularly do not mention that it is (including the RHS). However, I did find one that did state that the seed and other parts of the plant were indeed poisonous. I think I would tend to err on the safe side and assume that it is poisonous.

You could pull it up or replant it somewhere that your son does not have access.

Question:

I am about to design my garden and need a few information to help me in putting my budget together. My garden is laid to lawn, soil type is medium loam with a neutral pH. My idea for this garden is Mediterranean style garden, as the site is very sunny and hence a bit dry. What i would like to know is how many kg of gravel do i need for 1 sq m? Do you think it would be necessary to add some better soil and if yes, what amount? and the last thing, how much sharp sand do i need for the 2 inches compacted bed under the paving per 1 sq m? I would be very happy if you helped me.

I’m afraid I don’t have a huge amount of experience in hard landscaping. However, I have done a bit of research and found the following article from homebase. Click on the link below and download the PDF file. It tells you how to build a patio including how to calculate the materials required. http://www.homebase.co.uk/wcsstore/homebase/en_US/images/p0//HBHowToArticles/

articles/howto_buildpatio.html. I have also found the following site http://www.earthproducts.net/do_it_yourself/calculators_gravel.html which allows you to calculate how much gravel you will need for your area. Most Mediterranean plants prefer poor soil so I wouldn’t change or add to the soil you have. However, it may be advisable to incorporate some fine grade gravel (pea shingle) to the soil to lighten the texture. Ensure you use plants that love the sun and don’t over feed.

Question:

i recently got involved has a volunteer in creating a community garden for elderly people the area we have was very very overgrown we have now hacked it all to the ground with strimmers etc but i have a idea that the weeds etc will soon shoot up again i would like some advice on a good economical weedkiller has its a large area somebody mentioned something called weed matting is this easy to lay and expensive or inexpensive and above all effective and would that enable a lawn to be laid on top any advise welcomed thank you

It looks like you’ve taken on a massive job here but I’m sure it will be worth while in the end. There are a few ways to remove the weeds. The first, and the hardest, is to dig over the whole area and remove the weeds by hand. Don’t be tempted to use a rotavator because this will chop up and spread perennial weed roots far and wide, making the weed problem much worse. Leave the land for a few weeks during which time any annual weed seeds left will germinate and these can be removed by hand. Don’t add them to the compost heap as perennial weed seeds will remain in the soil.

If you don’t fancy digging, wait until new weed shoots appear and apply weedkiller containing glyphosate. I’ve done a bit of research and found the following weedkillers which sound good. You should be able to get them at your local garden centre or DIY store: Weedol 2 - An economical weedkiller that can be used all round the garden except on lawns, unless you want to kill them. Weedol doesn't harm the soil so seeding or planting can be carried out immediately after treatment. Young green suckers of roses, lilac and plums can also be killed without harming the rootstock. Effective at any time of the year, Weedol is rainproof in 10 minutes. Contains diquat. Keep away from children and pets. 12 sachet carton treats 204m² Roundup Weedkiller - will completely kill all weeds and roots. Children and pets don't need to be excluded from treated areas as it is biodegradable and starts to break down as soon as it touches the soil. It contains the chemical glyphosate and includes measuring cap for easy measuring. Do not use on lawns or other wanted plants as it will kill everything plant it touches. 280ml treats 280m² Here are a few general rules to bear in mind when using weedkiller: • Read the manufacturer’s instructions to be sure you are using the right weedkiller for the job. • Keep weedkiller off plants that you want to keep. • Dissolve/dilute the weedkiller according to instructions on the packaging and apply weeds using a fine rose (sprinkler head) on a watering can which you only use for weedkiller. • Don’t apply on a windy day because weedkillers can drift onto other plants. • The most effective time to apply weedkillers is when weeds are leafy and growing actively, mid-spring to early summer is ideal. • Keep weedkillers in a safe place, out of reach from children and pets. When empty, dispose of them carefully. Not all weeds will die so repeat applications may be needed. The final method is to cover the ground with sheets of black plastic or old carpet. Emerging weed shoots won’t get any light and will starve and die. This may take a couple of years to be 100 per cent effective. You will be able to lay your lawn over the area once all the weeds have died. You may need to weed and feed the lawn after the first year to ensure new weeds don’t take hold. For areas which are not going to be lawned you will need to ensure the weeds don’t come back. To help keep them to a minimum add a mulch of bark, compost, manure, gravel or slate. In addition you can also use a weed-proof membrane which is made of woven polypropylene. Lay this on top of the soil and add the mulch on top of that. Plant through the membrane by cutting crosses in the material. Again, the membrane will be available at your local garden centre or DIY store.

Question:

I was wondering if you could advise me on a small matter. Not so long ago we had our garden changed. We used to have a steep sloping garden with a small patio area. This changed as we have taken back the slope and built a wall. This has increased the size of the patio. The soil that was taken back was placed on top of the slant behind the wall to create a level surface. The wall was then rendered. However the rendering has come free from the wall and has completely cracked and broken. I was hoping that you could advise me on what mixture i should be using to render the wall and if there is anything i can do to stop this happening again. Also what i can use to bind the render to the wall.

I’m afraid I don’t have much experience in this area but I have found a website which has some information in rendering and also has a forum where you can ask more questions.http://www.diynot.com/pages/op/op006.php

Question:

I have a large pagoda tree and am seeking advice on pruning it.

I don't believe there are any specific pruning requirements for a Pagoda Tree so I have included a link to a good website which will show you how to prune trees in general.

Question:

Daphne odora 'Aureomarginata' A friend bought this for me a few years ago, I have repotted it once and keep it indoors as a previous Daphne (same species) died outdoors planted near the front door (perhaps frost?) This one now seems lack lustre and has not flowered ever in five years. I know I must be doing something wrong and want it to survive. It is in a 15" x 8" pot but the soil has not been changed nor do I do anything but water it weekly. Please advise, as I am from NZ and we had these growing outside near our front doors and the smell was wonderful. By the way we have a lot of rabbits where we live and I am fearful of putting it outside as they damage everything. Also, I run a Cemetery in Hemel Hempstead, it is surrounded by fields and the M1. We have many distressed people who are so upset with the rabbits which enter the cemetery and feed on their plants and floral tributes for the deceased. As you can understand they cost the bereaved a lot of money and they are often in tears in my office and I would dearly love to help them with a solution. We have listed plants that rabbits are not supposed to like (which got from the internet) but we note they eat anything if they have to. The other thing we have noted is they seem to avoid the more aromatic flowers and flowering shrubs but again will eat if they have to i.e. if there is nothing else. Can you give me any advice to help, we do not have warrens on the site itself and the size of the cemetery does not allow for rabbit proof fencing.

I’m sorry to hear about your rabbit problem at the cemetery but unfortunately no plant is really rabbit proof but, as you say, they do tend to dislike very aromatic plants. They also dislike plants that ooze sap, prickly plants, plants with spines, or plants with tough leathery leaves. I have found a useful website with a list of such plants http://www.complete-gardens.co.uk. I hope it helps you. In relation to your Daphne odora ‘Aureomarginata’. This variety is one of the more hardy Daphnes but can still be affected by frost. Most garden plants dislike being indoors all year so I would put it out between May and October and keep it protected during the winter. They like a well-drained, rich soil but will tolerate a little shade. I would re-pot it into good quality compost mixed with gravel to aid drainage and some well-rotted manure to help the soil structure. Put it in a sunny place for the remainder of the summer, keep it moist but ensure it doesn’t get water-logged. For the future, keep pruning to a minimum since the plant is very susceptible to die-back. If necessary after flowering lightly trim back to remove misplaced branches and maintain a compact habit. All parts of the plant including the seed are highly toxic if ingested and contact with the sap may cause skin irritation so in theory the rabbits shouldn’t touch it. I hope your Daphne survives as it is a lovely plant.

Question:

the house next door to mine is a long term empty property. in its garden it is riddled with 2 weeds one is mayors tail and the other i dont know the name of but it is like a route that travels under the surface and every now and then it shoots up just 2 or 3 blades of grass type things. my problems i cannot do anything to stop these 2 weeds coming through into my garden. next to that garden i have a small patch of tended garden which is turned over and is ready for planting up. but because of the weeds next door there is nothing i can do about it can you help. i have had an idea which i would like to run past you, from what i can see both weeds seem to be just just under the surface and i wandered if i dug down a spade deep all along the edge of my side along the perimeter, soas too cut off the roots and then somehow put in a barrier would the mayors tail and other dig its way under the barrier and if not i then can to somehow kill off the rots on my side before planting. i have tried weed killing but to no avail and it gets worse yearly. please can you help.

I’m sorry to hear about your weed problem. I think your suggestion is an excellent idea. Once the barrier is in place it is extremely unlikely that the weeds’ roots will go down far enough to make their way over to your side of the garden. Once you have cut the roots and put the barrier in place I would double check all stray roots are removed from the area, wait a few weeks to see if any new weeds appear. If so then treat the area with a good weedkiller such as Roundup and that should be that.

Question:

I believe this is a new variety of flowering cherry and have found the following advice. Ornamental cherries are not often long lived. It likes to be grown in sun, in moist but well drained, fairly fertile soil. When planting add some well rotted manure to the planting hole and mulch the surface of the soil to help keep weeds down and retain moisture. All pruning should be kept to a minimum but if you want to shape it this should be done whilst young. Deadwood should be removed in mid summer, and trunks should be kept clear of sprouting shoots. Keep an eye out for pests and diseases as ornamental cherries are prone to damage from aphids, caterpillars and bullfinches. Silver leaf, honey fungus and blossom wilt can be problematic.

Question:

I have a very small garden 29ft wide by 37ft long i am looking for a small tree that will grow no taller than 8-10ft cant have to wide a spread either can be flowering or have foliage that changes colour with the seasons

If you definitely want a tree I would plump for an Acer. They will all give you great autumn colour and they don't grow too big (double check the label before buying). These trees tend to be quite expensive for large specimens but you can buy them quite small for around £10. Crocus.co.uk have quite a good collection if you want to get some ideas, there is a link to them on my website, just go to plant search and type in Acer. Another good, small tree is Voss's Laburnum (Laburnum x watereri Vossii) but its flowers are poisonous so not advisable if you have children. Again, an example can be found at crocus. If you'd prefer a good sized shrub then I can recommend Forsythia, which has bright yellow flowers in spring, or Photinia which is evergreen but the new growth during spring/early summer is bright red.

Question:

hi again just wanted a bit of information regards to a new shrub i bought the plant labels is not very helpful the name of the plant is a photinia fraseri camilvy what type of conditions does this shrub like sun/shade should it be watered and fed regularly what type of plant food should i use if any thank you for taking the time to read this any advice most welcome thanks

Your Photinia is a lovely shrub which doesn't grow too big (400cm max). It is evergreen and the new growth in spring is bright red. It likes full sun or partial shade and is fully hardy. However, watch out for late frost which may damage young leaves. It may be best to plant it in a sheltered position. It prefers a well-drained but moist soil. Its feeding requirements are not anything special. Just add a mulch in the autumn.

Question:

Is it too late to prune heathers/calluna, if not, how do I go about pruning them?

I think you should still be OK. After the plant has flowered trim with shears or secateurs to remove the dead flowers and encourage bushy growth. Don't cut into the old, woody growth as it may not come back from there.

Question:

Can I move a Skimmia Japonica 'Rubella' from one spot in the garden to another, as its too close to a Forest Flame plant.

Most plants can be moved successfully with a little care and attention. Prepare the new planting hole before lifting the plant. Add some well rotted manure to the planting hole and sprinkle a general fertiliser on the removed soil before replacing. Water the plant well and dig it out with as much rootball as possible, avoid damaging the roots. Place it immediately into the new hole, replace the soil, firm around the roots and water well. Keep it well watered for the next few weeks and it should be OK.

Question:

Are Wisteria buds brown at this time of year or should they be green

Wisteria buds are not always green so as long as they are not dry and paper-like they should flower OK.

Question:

Could you tell me how much coffee grounds I can add to my garden without causing damage?

Coffee grounds have many uses in the garden. Sprinkle a few handfuls of used grounds around plants before rain or watering, for a slow-release nitrogen feed or dilute with water for a gentle, fast-acting liquid fertilizer. You can also add to compost heaps to increase the nitrogen balance. Coffee grounds are high in nitrogen but are also acidic. Small amounts of grounds shouldn't cause any problems but you should test the acidity of your soil before applying large amounts to ensure you don't make the soil too acidic for the plants you are growing. Nitrogen is very important in soil and plants tend to always need more, any excess will drain away with the rain. Therefore, again, small amounts will be beneficial but, as with anything, don't over do it.

Question:

I love the website, really helpful and with a bit more variety than other websites! Do you think you could give me any advice in the same format as that shown on your website for the growth and care of onions (White Lisbon and F1 Hytech) I have downloaded a lot of information on the other vegetables and fruit I wish to grow, but I just want to m