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General Information Cabbage Troubles

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[Back to Main Troubles Page]

 

Cabbage

Sowing Time

Planting Time

Soil

Spacing

Cutting / Lifting Time

Storage

Cooking

Do not grow in the same plot more than once every three years and ideally it will have grown peas or beans previously. Dig the soil deeply in winter and leave several months before planting to ensure firm soil. Lime to aim for a pH of 6.5-7.5. Plant firmly. Sow in a seedbed and transplant to a permanent bed. Transplant carefully and avoid drying out. In March thin out Spring Cabbages and use the young plants as spring greens. Harvest by cutting with a sharp knife close to the ground and cut a cross into the stumps to produce a second crop of small cabbages. Cabbages cut in November can be stored in straw-lined boxes in a cool, dry place until March.

Spring Cabbages: Early July to end August - Summer Cabbages: Mid February under glass, mid March outdoors to mid May

Spring Cabbages: Early September to late October - Summer Cabbages: Mid April to end June

Well consolidated soil is essential. Do not fork over the surface before sowing or planting.

Sow thinly and 6 inches between rows. Transplant when they have 5-6 leaves and leave 12ins between plants.

Spring Cabbages: Late February to mid June - Summer Cabbages: Mid June to late October

Will keep in a food bag in the fridge for up to one weeks. For freezing, blanch for 1 mins and use within 12 months

 Wash and prepare just prior to cooking. Shred or cut into wedges. Add 1ins water to a pan and bring to the boil. Add leaves slowly so the water does not stop boiling. Cover and cook for 5 (shredded) or 10 mins (wedges)

 

 

Cabbage Troubles
Trouble Symptoms Treatment Prevention
Boron Deficiency Young leaves are distorted and heads of cauliflowers are small and bitter. Brown patches on the curds. Spray at first signs of deficiency Apply borax before planting
Black Rot Yellowing leaves with black veins. Will kill seedlings and mature plants are stunted. None Rotate crops
Cabbage Stem Flea Beetle Plants wilt and die. Small, cream grubs can be seen within the stems of cabbages. None Rotate crops
Cutworm Large grey or brown caterpillars attack young plants at night and stems are severed below ground. Leaves and roots may also be eaten. Hoe the soil around the plant during June and July and destroy caterpillars as they are found Rake Chlorophos into the soil prior to planting
Chafer Grubs Wilting leaves. Fat, curved grubs may be seen in the soil. The plants will die. None Destroy grubs as they are found during autumn digging and rake Chlorophos into the soil prior to planting
Cabbage Whitefly Tiny white moths and larvea feed on underside of leaves. Sooty moulds develop and plants are weakened. Spray at the first sign of attack and repeat as needed None
Cabbage Root Fly Blue-tinged leaves which wilt in the sun. Cabbages fail to heart and cauliflowers form small heads Spray around the base of plants Sprinkle Chlorophos around the base after transplanting
Club Root Discoloured leaves wilt in the sun. Plants will die or grow slowly. None Lime well and ensure the soil is well drained. Dip transplant roots in thiophanate-methyl before planting. Rotate crops
Cabbage Caterpillars Holes in leaves. Spray as soon as attack appears If white butterflies are found around the plants inspect the leaves and remove any eggs
Diamond-Back Moth Green caterpillars fed on the underside of leaves Spray at first sign of attack None
Downy Mildew Yellowing of upper surface with white furry fungus growth beneath Spray at first stage of disease Sow seeds in sterilised compost. Do not over-crowd and don't raise seedlings where the disease has been before.
Flea Beetle Lots of small, round holes in leaves. Seedlings can be killed. Spray at the first sign of attack. Water plants well in dry weather. Treating seeds with an insecticidal seed dressing will prevent early attacks
Frost Can kill plants if it reaches the roots. Affected leaves are easily attacked by fungi or bacteria. Burn damaged leaves Ensure plants are firmed well when transplanting
Gall Weevil Swellings form close to ground level. Crops are rarely affected. Not really needed. Apply a soil-pest killer
Heartless Cabbages No heart in the cabbages None Ensure plenty of organic matter is added to the soil prior to planting and that the ground is well compacted. Ensure site is sunny and well watered.
Leaf Spot (Ring Spot) Brown rings on mature leaves. Burn diseased leaves and spray Do not plant brassicas in the same spot next season
Mealy Aphid Waxy, greyish "greenflies" appear underneath leaves. Leaves curl and turn yellow. Spray at the first sign of attack Burn affected plants
Magnesium Deficiency Yellowing between the veins of older leaves Apply a tonic around the plant and a fertiliser containing magnesium Incorporate compost into the soil during Autumn digging
Manganese Deficiency Similar in look to magnesium deficiency but tends to start on young leaves Apply a tonic around the plant Incorporate compost into the soil during Autumn digging
Pigeons Soft portion of leaves are eaten None Netting is the only viable form of prevention
Slugs and Snails Leaves and stems eaten. Young plants particularly at risk. Use slug pellets or add nematodes to the soil Keep the site clear of rubbish
Split Hearts Cabbage heads split None Water regularly during dry weather and protect from frost
Swede Midge Leaf stalks near the growing point are swollen and distorted. Plant becomes blind. Burn affected plants and spray those remaining None
White Blister (White Rust) White spots on leaves. Growth stunted and plants might die. Burn diseased leaves and thin out plants to avoid over-crowding Do not grow brassicas the following year
Wire Stem Base of stems is black. Seedlings die. None Avoid growing seedlings in cold and wet soil. Avoid over-crowding
Whiptail Thin, strap like leaves. Small cauliflower heads. Molybdenum deficiency. Spray repeatedly Ensure soil is adequately limed

 

General Information

Cabbage Troubles

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[Back to Main Troubles Page]

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