|
Brussels Sprouts |
|
Sowing
Time |
Planting
Time |
Soil |
Spacing |
Cutting /
Lifting Time |
Storage |
Cooking |
|
Do not grow in the same plot more than once every
three years and ideally it will have grown peas or beans previously.
Dig the soil deeply in winter and leave several months before
planting to ensure firm soil. Lime to aim for a pH of 6.5-7.5. Plant
firmly. Sow in a seedbed and transplant to a permanent bed.
Transplant carefully and avoid drying out. By growing both early and
late varieties you can be picking Sprouts from September to March.
Earth up the stems in Autumn and stake tall varieties. Harvest with
the lower sprouts are walnut sized and tightly closed. Work up the
stem. |
|
Early
March under glass or mid March outdoors until mid April |
Early May
to end of June |
Ensure the
ground is firm with adequate humus. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot. |
Sow thinly
and 6 inches between rows.
Transplant when seedlings are 4-6ins and leave 24ins between
plants. |
Mid
September to end March. |
Will keep
in a food bag in the fridge for up to three days. For freezing,
blanch for 3 mins and use within 12 months |
Cut
off the stalk and remove outer leaves. Cut a cross in the base and
wash in cold water. Add 1ins water to a pan and bring to the boil.
Add sprouts slowly so the water does not stop boiling. Cover and
cook for 7-8 mins. |
|
Brussels Sprouts Troubles |
|
Trouble |
Symptoms |
Treatment |
Prevention |
|
Boron Deficiency |
Young leaves are distorted and heads of cauliflowers
are small and bitter. Brown patches on the curds. |
Spray at first signs of deficiency |
Apply borax before planting |
|
Blown Brussels Sprouts |
Open, leafy sprouts instead of tight button ones. |
Remove blown sprouts |
Ensure plenty of organic matter is added to the soil
prior to planting and that the ground is well compacted. Ensure site
is sunny and well watered. |
|
Black Rot |
Yellowing leaves with black veins. Will kill
seedlings and mature plants are stunted. |
None |
Rotate crops |
|
Cutworm |
Large grey or brown caterpillars attack young plants
at night and stems are severed below ground. Leaves and roots may
also be eaten. |
Hoe the soil around the plant during June and July
and destroy caterpillars as they are found |
Rake Chlorophos into the soil prior to planting |
|
Chafer Grubs |
Wilting leaves. Fat, curved grubs may be seen in the
soil. The plants will die. |
None |
Destroy grubs as they are found during autumn digging
and rake Chlorophos into the soil prior to planting |
|
Club Root |
Discoloured leaves wilt in the sun. Plants will die
or grow slowly. |
None |
Lime well and ensure the soil is well drained. Dip
transplant roots in thiophanate-methyl before
planting. Rotate crops |
|
Diamond-Back Moth |
Green caterpillars fed on the underside of leaves.
|
Spray at first sign of attack |
None |
|
Downy Mildew |
Yellowing of upper surface with white furry fungus
growth beneath. |
Spray at first stage of disease |
Sow seeds in sterilised compost. Do not over-crowd
and don't raise seedlings where the disease has been before. |
|
Flea Beetle |
Lots of small, round holes in leaves. Seedlings can
be killed. |
Spray at the first sign of attack. Water plants well
in dry weather. |
Treating seeds with an insecticidal seed dressing
will prevent early attacks |
|
Frost |
Can kill plants if it reaches the roots. Affected
leaves are easily attacked by fungi or bacteria. |
Burn damaged leaves |
Ensure plants are firmed well when transplanting |
|
Gall Weevil |
Swellings form close to ground level. Crops are
rarely affected. |
Not really needed. |
Apply a soil-pest killer |
|
Leaf Spot (Ring Spot) |
Brown rings on mature leaves. |
Burn diseased leaves and spray |
Do not plant brassicas in the same spot next season |
|
Mealy Aphid |
Waxy, greyish "greenflies" appear underneath leaves.
Leaves curl and turn yellow. |
Spray at the first sign of attack |
Burn affected plants |
|
Magnesium Deficiency |
Yellowing between the veins of older leaves. |
Apply a tonic around the plant and a fertiliser
containing magnesium |
Incorporate compost into the soil during Autumn
digging |
|
Manganese Deficiency |
Similar in look to magnesium deficiency but tends to
start on young leaves. |
Apply a tonic around the plant |
Incorporate compost into the soil during Autumn
digging |
|
Pigeons |
Soft portion of leaves are eaten. |
None |
Netting is the only viable form of prevention |
|
Slugs and Snails |
Leaves and stems eaten. Young plants particularly at
risk. |
Use slug pellets or add nematodes to the soil |
Keep the site clear of rubbish |
|
White Blister (White Rust) |
White spots on leaves. Growth stunted and plants
might die. |
Burn diseased leaves and thin out plants to avoid
over-crowding |
Do not grow brassicas the following year |
|
Wire Stem |
Base of stems is black. Seedlings die. |
None |
Avoid growing seedlings in cold and wet soil. Avoid
over-crowding |
|
Whiptail |
Thin, straplike leaves.
Molybdenum deficiency. |
Spray repeatedly |
Ensure soil is adequately limed |
