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Getting Personal
Personalised Calendar for the Gardener in
your life

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Growth Types (height) |
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Prostrate
(Ground Cover) |
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<= 30cm |
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Single |
< 8 |
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Miniature
Bush |
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<= 40cm |
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Semi-Double |
8-20 |
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Miniature
Standard |
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Stem 30cm |
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Double |
> 20 |
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Dwarf Bush |
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<= 60cm |
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Bush |
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> 60cm |
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Flower Colours |
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Half
Standard |
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Stem 75cm |
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Single
Colour |
Similar
colour throughout |
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Full
Standard |
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Stem 1m |
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Bi-Colour |
Outside of
petal different from inside |
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Weeping
Standard |
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Stem 1.5m |
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Multi-Colour |
Colour
changes with age |
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Pillar
Rose |
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2.5m |
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Blend |
Two or
more colours merge on inside |
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Climbing
Rose |
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>2.5m |
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Striped |
Two or
more colours in form of bands |
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Hand
Painted |
Silvery
with red blotches over, white eye |
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Petal
Shapes |
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Plain |
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Flower
Shapes |
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Reflexed |
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High-centred |
Classical
Hybrid Tea - long inner petals, regular central cone |
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Ruffled |
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Split-centred |
Inner
petals confused, irregular central cone |
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Frilled |
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Blown |
Normally
well shaped but past its best, reveals stamens |
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Globular |
Many
petals, forms ball-like arrangement with closed centre |
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Rootstock |
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Open-cupped |
Many
petals, forms cup-like arrangement with open centre |
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Rosa 'Laxa' |
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Quartered |
Inner
petals folded into four sections rather than a cone |
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Rosa
canina |
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Flat |
Small
number of petals, flat and low-centred bloom |
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Rosa
multiflora |
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Rosette |
Many short
petals, flat and low-centred bloom |
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Rosa
rugosa |
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Pompom |
Many short
regularly arranged petals, rounded bloom |
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Flowering Periods |
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Repeat
Flowering: produce two or more flushes of blooms during the
flowering season. |
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Once
Flowering: produce single flush of blooms which last for several
weeks usually during June and July.
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Browse the categories below for a
full range of plants available from Crocus.co.uk |
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Rose Groups |
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Group |
Description |
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Hybrid Tea |
The most
popular group; available in bush and standard forms. Long flower
stems. Shapely medium to large sized blooms with many petals forming
a central cone. Single blooms or with side buds. Habit is upright
and rigid and they are often ruined by bad weather. Bloom less often
and less colourfully than Floribunda roses and the number of blooms
is often disappointing. |
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Floribunda |
Flowers in
trusses with several blooms being open at one time on each truss.
Very colourful, reliable, long-lasting blooms. Provides excellent
colour for the garden. Hardy and easy to care for. Blooms are
smaller and usually less fragrant than the Hybrid Tea.
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Patio |
A
relatively new group; originally small varieties of Floribunda. Low
growing, approx. 50cm high, they are ideal for pots or the front of
a border. Both flowers and leaves are in keeping with the size of
the plant. |
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Miniature |
Both
leaves and flowers are small and with a maximum height of 40cm are
ideal for growing in pots or a rockery. Can be grown as a
houseplant. |
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Ground
Cover |
A
spreading rose which repeat flowers and is resistant to disease.
Some varieties are very low growing so good for growing between
taller shrubs or used to cover banks. |
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Climbers and Ramblers |
Climbers
have stiff stems which bear large flowers, many repeat flowering.
Ramblers have long pliable stems which bear small flowers on large
trusses in one single summer flush. Both require to be tied into
strong supports. |
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Shrub |
Shrub
roses consist of a large group of bush roses which are neither
Hybrid Tea nor Floribunda. |
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Planting |
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Situation |
A spot
which gets plenty of sun and air, has shelter from cold winds and
where the soil is well drained. Do not plant roses in the same area
for more than ten years. |
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Timing |
Late
October/early November or March. Container grown plants can be
planted at any time but not when the ground is frozen or
waterlogged. |
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Soil
Preparation |
Prepare
the soil well by double digging the
area. Add lime if the soil is particularly acid but avoid over
liming. If required add extra topsoil to ensure an adequate planting
depth, alternatively build a raised bed and fill with good quality
top soil. |
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Plant
Preparation |
If your
rose is not be be planted immediately leave it unopened in an
unheated, frost-proof, shed or garage. If it is not to be planted
for more than ten days, plant it temporarily in a shallow v-shaped
trench, firming it well. This is known as heeling-in. When ready to
plant remove the rose from it's packaging, cut off any leaves, hips
or buds or any thin or damaged shoots and roots and plunge the roots
in a bucket of water until ready to place in it's hole. For
container-grown plants ensure the soil is moist, if not water well
before planting. |
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Planting
Mixture |
Make up a planting
mixture of one part soil, one part compost and three handfuls of
bone meal. |
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Planting |
Bush |
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Standard |
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Climber |
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Transplanting Existing Bushes |
Moving
established rose bushes should be carried out in late autumn or
early spring. Shorten the stems and cut off old leaves and flowers.
Lift the plant and replant immediately. Keep well watered until
re-established. |
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Bare-root
plants: The planting hole should be 20-25cm deep and 60cm wide.
Spread out the roots evenly, add a small amount of planting mixture
and gently shake the plant to ensure the mixture gets between the
roots. Place a cane across the top of the hole to ensure that the
bud union is level with the surface of the soil. Half fill the hole
with mixture and firm down gently, add more mixture until the
hole is full and firm again. The bud union should be 2-3cm below the
surface.
Container-grown plants: Dig a hole large enough and deep enough for
the soil ball plus a 10cm layer of planting mixture. Place the plant
in the hole and fill in the space around the soil with planting
mixture. Firm well. Water well and continue to water until the plant
is established.
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The first
step is to firmly drive in a stake approximately 3-4cm across and as
high enough to come below the head of the tree. Place the stake on
the side of the prevailing wind. Secondly, plant as for bushes
above. Thirdly, fix the tree to the stake using expanding ties. |
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Prepare
the soil well and dig a hole approximately 40cm away from the wall
or fence and below any damp course. Plant the climber with the roots
sloping away from the wall. |
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Caring for your Roses |
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Mulching |
Mulching is the application of organic matter on any exposed soil between plants
and shrubs and should be carried out while the soil is warm and moist.
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Training |
Climbing roses must be trained as
soon as they are planted to ensure they are secure and growing in
the correct direction. Main shoots should be trained horizontally to
induce lateral branch growth and subsequent flowering.
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Pruning |
Most plant require some
pruning
but it is essential for rose bushes in order to encourage the
regular development of strong, healthy stems. There are two methods
of pruning. The easy method is just to simply cut the plant to half
it's size using secateurs or a hedge trimmer, remove dead wood if
required. The traditional method: cut out all dead or diseased wood
(the cut surface should be white not brown). Cut out all very thin
or unripe stems and any branches which are rubbing against each
other. Remove suckers. Prune the remaining healthy stems to half
their length for established bushes or to 3-4 buds from the base for
newly planted roses. Newly planted climbers should not be prunes, as
they establish you can cut out dead and diseased wood and reduce
it's height if required. Pruning should be carried out in early
spring but you can reduce the height of particularly large bushes in
November to avoid wind-rock. |
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Watering |
Keep your roses well
watered
during dry plans to ensure good growth and big blooms. Never water
little and often, use at least five litres for each bush and 15
litres for climbers. |
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Hoeing |
Hoeing keeps down weeds. Avoid
damaging roots by not going deeper than 2-3cm below the surface.
Deep soil disturbance should always be avoided.
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Disbudding |
Many Hybrid Tea roses produce more
than one flower bud on each shoot. For larger blooms remove side
buds by nipping out with the thumb and finger as soon as they
appear. |
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Cutting |
Roses make wonderful cut flowers. To
avoid weakening the plant don't take more than one-third of the
flower stems and always cut just above an outward-facing bud.
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Dead-Heading |
Repeat flowering roses should have
the dead blooms removed to avoid energy going into the production of
hips. When the flowers have faded remove the whole truss, cutting
the stem just above the second or third leaf down.
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Thinning |
Occasionally two or more shoots
develop from a single bud, remove all but one by rubbing gently with
the fingers. |
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Feeding |
To ensure good strong, healthy plants
feed your roses every year. Mulching will provide humus and some
nutrients
but extra food will be required. The best way to provide this is to
use a proprietary compound fertilizer containing nitrogen,
phosphates and potash. Feeding should take place in spring before
the leaves are fully open or during June or July. If you have a
large number of plants to feed use a diluted liquid fertilizer and
apply with a hose feeder each month between April to end July. |
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Avoiding Trouble with your Roses |
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Buy good plants |
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Burn prunings and dead leaves |
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Prepare the ground well |
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Don't over lime |
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Don't plant too close |
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Plant correctly |
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Feed properly |
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Identify
pests and disease early |
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Plant firmly |
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Avoid wind-rock |
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Ensure well drained ground |
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Avoid drying out |
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Protect from severe frost |
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Don't use fresh manure when planting |
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Don't prune too hard |
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Don't plant under trees |
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