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Choosing Plants
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Check the
label, the flowers should match the picture or description; if not, it may
be labelled incorrectly
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Leaves should
be healthy, clear and free of pests or diseases
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Stems and
branches should be sturdy and evenly spread around a central stem
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Avoid trees
whose main central shoot is missing or broken
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Compost should
be free of moss and liverworts
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Avoid plants
where compost has shrunk from the pot sides due to drying out
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There should be
plenty of roots
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If the plant is
healthy, but the roots are coming out of the bottom of the pot you can still
buy it and cut the pot off carefully
Click here to see the RHS definitions of plant
hardiness
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Browse the categories below for a
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How to Plant
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If the plant is
really dry, stand it in a bucket of water until it's thoroughly wet
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Prepare the
soil well and dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot
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Add some
organic matter into the bottom of the hole
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If you’re
planting in the spring sprinkle in some general fertilizer too
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Remove the
plant from its pot
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If it is
pot-bound tease out a few of the biggest roots
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Stand the plant
in the hole with it’s best side facing the direction from which you'll
normally view it
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Check that the
top of the rootball is level with the surrounding soil, and that the plant
is standing upright
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Mix
more organic matter with the excavated soil and fill in around the rootball.
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Firm gently
with your foot
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Water
thoroughly
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Spread an layer
of mulch
The
exceptions to the above technique are:
Alpines
Rock
plants need good drainage. When planting alpines, set the top of the rootball
1cm above the level of the soil and then spread a layer of gravel around the
neck of the plant. Over the rest of the soil surface as a top dressing.
Bulbs
Bulbs generally need planting quite deep; the general rule is three times their
own depth. However, if you get the depth wrong most bulbs will pull themselves
down into the ground using special, contractile roots. If you're planting bulbs
in heavy soil, add grit to the bottom of the hole to ensure good drainage.
A
few bulbs prefer shallow planting. Plant Madonna lilies (Lilium candidum) with
the tip of the bulb just showing above ground. Lay Crown Imperials (Fritillaria
imperialis) on their sides so that water can't collect in their hollow centre
and make them rot.
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Clematis
Clematis are the major exception to the normal rule about planting depth; they
need to be planted deep. The top of the rootball should be buried 10-15cm below
the surface of the soil. This is to ensure regrowth should the young plant
suffer from clematis wilt, it also keeps the roots cool and moist which they
love.
Evergreens
Plant evergreens as per the standard technique but be sure to keep the soil
moist and protect them from severe winds.
Grafted plants
It
is essential to plant grafted plants with the union about 10cm above ground.
When you buy grafted shrubs growing in pots, they will already be planted at
the right depth, so just plant with the top of the rootball flush with the
ground. Roses are the exception; plant with the union about 2.5cm under ground,
even if they were higher in their pots.
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Trees
It's
a good idea to stake new trees which are taller than 2m while it's getting
properly rooted in. Use a short stake, 100-120-cm, hammered in at an angle of 45
degrees. The top end of the stake should point in the direction of the
prevailing wind. Use a tree tie to fix the trunk to the stake about 30cm from
the ground - the buckle of the tie should rest against the stake, not the tree.
Moving perennials
Spring is the best time for moving most perennials, but there are a few
exceptions: bearded irises should be moved six weeks after flowering; move
primroses and polyanthus immediately after flowering. Only the toughest of
plants should be moved in the Autumn. A few perennials, such as hellebores,
don’t move well so look for self-sown seedlings around the original plant and
transplant them in the spring. You can move spring bulbs at any time during
summer, when they are dormant. You can also dig them up as soon as they finish
flowering and move them 'in-the-green'.
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Moving existing shrubs
Most shrubs will
move well provided they are not too old. Shallow-rooted kinds, like
rhododendrons, move very easily. Evergreens move best in early autumn or early
spring. Move deciduous shrubs when they are not in leaf. For all shrubs take it
up with as large a ball of roots as possible. Move it immediately to a new, well
prepared planting hole, with lots of organic matter forked into the bottom, and
fill in quickly. Replant at the same depth as it was growing before. Water it in
well, and keep it watered during dry spells. Before moving a large plant it is
advisable to dig right around it during the spring before you want to move it.
By doing this you'll sever some of the big thick roots encouraging the plant to
make lots of new fibrous roots which form a dense rootball that transplants
better.
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