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The introduction of container grown fruit trees and shrubs and the availability
of dwarf varieties of apple, pear and cherry has meant that every gardener can
now successfully grow most fruits in their own back gardens. Not all fruit is
easy to grow and careful consideration should be given to the types and
varieties suitable for your own location and conditions before making a final
decision. The Gardening Register hope that the following information will help
you produce a wide variety of fruit in your garden.
For detailed information regarding pests and diseases of fruit please visit the
Help and Advice Problem Solver
pages on the Royal Horticultural Society's website.
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Buying Fruit Trees
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Always buy your fruit trees from a reputable supplier. If you are confident in
pruning then buy a one year old maiden whip. This has no laterals so will be
cheap but you will need to train it yourself and it will be about three years
before it produces a successful tree. Two and three year old trees have a basic
framework to work with but will cost you more. Avoid buying trees older than
four years as they can be hard to establish.
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Bare
rooted trees will have to be planted in the autumn. When buying you are looking
for a tree with good strong, evenly spaced branches without open buds. The main
stem should be straight and the union strong and free from cracks. Roots should
be well developed and spreading out in all directions. Remove any suckers
growing from the rootstock.
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Container grown trees can be planted at any time. Growth should be strong and
free of pests or disease. The main stem should be straight and the union strong
and free from cracks. Roots should not be growing through the base or side of
the pot and the surface of the soil should be clear of weeds and roots.
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Planting Fruit Trees
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Never plant a fruit tree where the same type has been planted previously. Bare
rooted trees should be planted between early November and late March but ensure
that the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.
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Dig
the site a month before planting to aerate the topsoil and break up the subsoil.
Remove weeds and add plenty of organic matter if the soil is particularly sandy
or heavy.
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If
your tree is not to be planted immediately then keep it in it's packaging in a
frost-free shed. Make up a planting mixture of one part top soil, one part
compost and three handfuls of bone meal prior to planting.
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Bare
Rooted Trees |
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When ready
to plant plunge the roots in a bucket of water for two hours and cut
back any damaged or long roots to around 12ins.
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Dig a
hole which is wide enough for the roots to spread out evenly and
deep enough to keep the root union well above ground level. When
planted the soil should reach to the old soil mark on the stem.
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Fork over the bottom
of the hole and form a small mound on which to place the roots.
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Insert a stake straight down to at least 12ins below the bottom of
the planting hole and to the side of the prevailing wind. The stake
should be about 3ins from the stem when the tree is planted.
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Add
a small amount of planting mixture and shake the plant to allow the
mixture to get between the roots.
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Add more mixture and firm well
around the roots without pressing too hard.
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Continue filling the
hole leaving a mound around the stem and a shallow ring around the
edge of the soil to help retain water.
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Fix a tie near the top of the
tree and loosen it as the stem thickens.
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Container
Grown Trees |
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When ready to plant water
the container thoroughly.
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Dig a planting hole large enough and deep
enough to hold the soil ball plus 3-4ins of planting mixture. The
top of the soil ball should be 1in below the soil surface after
planting.
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Add 3-4ins of planting mixture into the base of the hole.
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Insert the tree into the hole and carefully cut off the container.
Cut away any roots which may be circling the ball.
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Fill in around
the sides of the plant with planting mixture and firm down with your
hands.
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Leave a shallow basin at the surface of the soil to help
retain water.
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Insert a stake into the soil on the side away from the
prevailing wind at a 45 degree angle.
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Fix a tie and adjust as the
stem thickens.
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Aftercare for Fruit Trees
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Once planted water
your tree thoroughly and keep well watered until established. In the spring add
a good layer of mulch around the tree.
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Spray the leaves during warm weather and
remove all blossom in the first spring.
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Check stake ties every year and loosen
if necessary.
Buying Soft Fruit
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The
basics of buying soft fruit are the same as for any fruit tree (see
above). However, you must be particularly
careful not to buy virus-infected stock, always go for certified stock when
possible.
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There is a
Certification Scheme for Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackcurrants, some
Gooseberries and Red Currents. These plants have been inspected and passed by
the Ministry of Agriculture as free from pests and diseases and are true to
type.
Planting Soft Fruit
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Ideally grow your soft fruit in full sun away from strong winds. Most soils will
do except those which are particularly sandy or poorly drained, also avoid sites
under trees.
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Enrich all soils with well-rotted manure or compost before planting
and feed each year after planting.
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Keep the site free of weeds.
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The
basic planting rules are the same as for tree fruit (see
above).
Aftercare for Soft Fruit
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Once
planted water your soft fruit thoroughly and keep well watered until established.
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Add a 2 inch layer of mulch around each plant, avoiding the stems, and refresh
after feeding each spring.
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Add a spring
dressing of high-potash liquid fertiliser each year to ensure good crops that
year and good growth for the following year.
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When fruits begin to swell use a
foliar feed.
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